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AST’s Big Five Touring party arrived in South Africa buoyed by an unassailable 2-0 already established in the test series and the prospect of more spectacular cricket and weather in the picturesque city of Capetown. Despite some interesting pre-game insights and a conviction from AST Legend, Tour Host and current Australian selector, Merv Hughes that the team was pumped for a clean sweep, from the moment Ricky Ponting won his sixth toss in a row, the Proteas held the upper hand. As has been the want of Australian teams in the past, they struggled to get themselves up for a series dead rubber and were behind the eight ball after the first hours play. Disciplined line and length was the hallmark of the South African bowlers as they turned the screws on a difficult two paced first day batting wicket and by the end of the second day, had assumed an unassailable position in the game. Despite the one sided battle on the pitch, the AST crew enjoyed some awesome hospitality from our upper level catered box right behind the bowlers arm and stunning views across the Newlands pitch to Table Mountain. A determined rear guard action from an ever more comfortable looking Andrew ‘Ronnie’ McDonald and a spectacular 86 ball maiden test century from arguably now the world’s best all-rounder, Mitchell Johnson provided an uplifting finish to what in the end had been an unexpected but well deserved series triumph to Ricky Ponting’s much maligned new look squad.
With the cricket finishing a day early, we were handed the opportunity for a day’s excursion around the Cape peninsula. From the V&A Waterfront we headed past Sea Point and the half constructed Stadium that will host Capetown’s allocation of games for the 2010 FIFA World Cup to the beautiful suburbs of Bantry Bay, Clifton and Camps Bay. Here (as some of the group did a couple of days later) you can sit on perfect white sand beaches and enjoy a swim in the icy Atlantic Ocean before heading across the road for even icier sundowners and taste the catch of the day in Capetown’s best seafood restaurants, all to the stunning backdrop of an Atlantic sunset.
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Past Camps Bay, is Houts Bay where a short boat ride will take you out to see a large population of Cape Fur Seals that inhabit a rock formation off the coast. Detouring around the currently closed Chapman’s Pass and rejoining the coastal road that form’s part of officially the second most beautiful coastal drive in the world (behind Victoria’s Great Ocean Road) we continue through Table Mountain National Park and into Cape Point National Park. Contained in here is not only Africa’s most South Westerly point that forms the Cape of Good Hope, but the tip of the peninsula that is Cape point and the inside of False Bay. A climb to the top where the old lighthouse stands offers sweeping 360 degree views of the back of Table Mountain National Park and out to sea where the different currents and temperatures of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet to form a distinctive line in the water.
As early afternoon came and went, we headed over to a lovely restaurant on the beach in Simon’s Town, a naval settlement, for some excellent line fish and a walk to Boulder’s Beach where one of the largest colonies of African Penguins reside. The return journey brought us back through some of the spectacular wine areas that inhabit the slopes of Table Mountain and past the Botanical Gardens, University and Hospital that remain the only manmade structures allowed to be built at the base of the mountain on land donated to the Cape Colony by legendary British entrepreneur, Cecil Rhodes.
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The following two days were also devoted to seeing some of Capetown’s most famous sights and the morning we choose to catch the cable car up to the summit of Table Mountain could not have been more perfect. Without a cloud in the sky or a breath of wind, the city, beaches, bays and National Park lay before us in a manner which only occurs maybe half a dozen times a year. Many of the group took advantage and strolled the network of walking paths that can be found on the top of the table and benefitted from uninterrupted views of one of the World’s most beautiful natural areas.
The next morning we were able to get a different perspective as we caught the ferry out to Robben Island and looked back at the majesty of Table Mountain from out to sea. On the Island we were treated to a tour of a place that has at various times been a tribal home, an Irish settlement, a leper colony, a military outpost, a British prison and most famously, a political prison during the Apartheid era. It was here that Nelson Mandela spent the majority of his 27 years in captivity and we visited his cell as part of a guided tour that was conducted by a former inmate, giving a very personal insight into not just life in the prison but also life during the repression of apartheid.
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With a population of approximately 6 million, at least half of which reside in the township of Soweto (South West Township) and a similar history of Gold mining to Australia (the Witswatersrand Goldfields were discovered by an Australian who sold his claim for 10 pounds) Jo’Burg is an immense city of nearly 640 square kilometers. It is here that the first T20 International was played at the ‘Bullring’ that is the Wanderers Stadium. Some big hitting from the two David’s, Warner and Hussey, was bettered by a late revival from Albie Morkel and Mark Boucher in a competitive match that saw South Africa home by 4 wickets with 4 balls to spare. Two days later, Australia were comprehensively outclassed in the second of the T20 fixtures at Super Sport Park Centurion thanks to a man of the match performance from Roelof van der Merwe, and tight bowling from the controversial South African captain, Johan Botha.
Wedged between the two matches was a day when we took a tour to Soweto. In the 7 years since my first tour, significant progress has been made in relocating the majority of the population from shanty town slums into government supplied housing and the quality of life there had definitely improved. After some excellent historical information from our guide there were stops at the Hector Pieterson Memorial (documenting the student uprising of June 16th 1976), Ngakane Street, the only street in the world to boast 2 Noble Prize winners as former residents (Nelson Mandela and Arch Bishop Desmond Tutu, who still resides there), Winnie Mandela’s home and the new FNB Stadium (which is radically designed to look like an Africa pot and the venue for the semi finals and Final of the FIFA 2010 World Cup.)
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In the days that separated the T20 and ODI series, our touring party headed north to Kruger National Park to see the more renowned version of Africa’s Big Five. Staying at the luxurious Pestana Kruger resort which sits on the banks of the Crocodile River next to the Malelane Gate, games drives were interspersed with an AST Golf Challenge, lavish meals and spectacular sunset drinks on the deck overlooking hippos, elephants and crocodiles wallowing in the waters below. Two sunrise safaris with a bush breakfast in the park provided an endless list of highlights including; Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Black and White Rhino, Buffalo, Cheetah, Giraffe, Jackal, Serval, Caracal, Hyena, Hippopotamus, Chacma Baboon, Vervet Monkeys, Zebra, Warthog, Blue Wilderbeest, Impala, Bushbuck, kudu, Nyala, Waterbuck, Duiker, and endless varieties of birds. On the first morning we were extremely fortunate to witness a herd of approximately 25 elephants which included a number of newly born calves cover themselves in mud and then parade across the road only 10 or so metres in front of us. A similar experience on our night drive with a pride of lions that were camped in the middle of the road and put on a real life National Geographic documentary for us made this part of the tour extremely special. All in all the relaxing evenings in our beautiful Lodge surroundings and the spectacular wildlife and scenery made for some once in a life time experiences and an unforgettable few days.
Flying into Durban still on a high, things only got better as the group were treated to a night of hospitality and fine dining in the Penthouse suite of the Durban Hilton courtesy of our very generous Tour Host Merv Hughes and our first match victory as the Aussies romped to a 141 run victory in the first ODI at Sahara Stadium, Kingsmead, Durban. A welcome return to form from Brad Haddin and Mike Hussey with the bat was well supported by all round contributions from James Hopes and Man of the match figures of 4/29 and 20 not out from Nathan Hauritz. As the crowds left in droves, well before the South African Death knell, we were finally able to return some of the ‘friendly banter’ afforded to us by the at times not so humble home crowd and enjoy a celebratory rather than commiseratory post match drink.
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It was mixed emotions as we returned to Centurion for the final match of the tour, excited and confident of another strong performance from the new look one day side and yet saddened by the prospect of our time together coming to an end. A very enjoyable group dinner featured guest speaking appearances from both Greg Blewett, who looked back over his playing career and spoke to us about his current commentary commitments and thoughts on the game, and South African all round legend Clive Rice. Clive gave tremendous insight into his time in South African cricket before during and after isolation, World Series Cricket and the influence of Kerry Packer on the sport and his time as a player, captain and coach in English County Cricket and the change in professionalism and remuneration. It was another highly entertaining and professionally hosted event from Merv who was great value all tour. Interestingly, none of our ‘experts’ were able to predict the thrashing the Aussies received the next day as they capitulated to 5/20 batting first against the left arm / right arm swing combination of Wayne Parnell and Dale Steyn, some respectability only being restored by a very composed partnership from Callum Ferguson and James Hopes.
Whilst it was a very disappointing cricketing finish to the tour, I have no doubt that the experiences, sights and friendships that were made throughout our travels far exceeded anyone’s expectations and made for some unforgettable memories. I for one cannot wait to return for next year’s 2010 FIFA World Cup where AST will bring you more of the best that sport and Africa has to offer.
Until then, we hope you can join us in the Mother country later this year as Ponting’s men attempt to restore glory on English soil in what will hopefully be as competitive a series as ’05…
AST Tour Coordinator
Damon Minotti
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